It’s no exaggeration to say that my journey from Lima to Cusco by bus was one of the most memorable (and terrifying) experiences of my life. If you’re a backpacker who thrives on adventure, I can guarantee you this trip will test your limits. But before you rush to book your ticket, let me take you along for the ride, so you know exactly what you’re getting into.
Cost for a ticket: £15-20 (approx 75.70 Peruvian Sol)
Time: 22 hours+
Backpacking level: Hardcore!
Lima Bus Station for departure: https://granterminalterrestre.pe/
I started my journey in Lima, at the main bus terminal. Bustling, noisy, and chaotic like any other large bus station in a major city. It's located in the district of La Victoria, one of the central hubs for intercity travel. I boarded the bus in the early afternoon, excited to experience the slow transformation of Peru’s landscape from bustling cityscape to the untouched beauty of the Andes Mountains.
Part 1
Setting Off: My Little Cocoon with a View
The bus itself was a surprise, and a welcome one at that. It wasn’t just a standard coach. This thing was a comfy, modern two-level bus, and I snagged one of the best seats—right at the front on the top deck, giving me panoramic views of the landscape ahead. These buses are built for long-haul travel and come with wide reclining seats, leg rests, and even little curtains to pull around you, creating a personal cocoon of sorts. I settled in, surrounded by my backpack, snacks, and a playlist of podcasts and audiobooks, ready for the next 21 hours on the road.
The journey out of Lima was slow. As you leave the city, you’re stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic; typical of any big urban centre. But once we broke free from the gridlock, it was like the city vanished behind us, swallowed by the landscape. The concrete jungle gave way to something far more mesmerising.
Part 2
From Bustling Streets to Coastal Wonders
Once out of the city's clutches, the road stretched ahead, hugging the coastline. To the right, the Pacific Ocean spread out like a shimmering blue carpet, while to the left, sand dunes and jagged mountains began to rise, their vastness almost unbelievable. It was as if I had left one planet and landed on another.
The sun began to set, casting an otherworldly glow over everything. The sky transformed into a canvas of reds, purples, and oranges, spilling their colours across the ocean and the sand. This sunset was like nothing I’d ever seen, a rich, deep palette that made me feel like I was on the edge of the world. The colours were so intense that I could only sit in awe, wondering how many sunsets like this I’d missed in my lifetime. It felt like the Earth itself was putting on a show, just for me.
As night fell, I plugged into a podcast, listening to stories about Nicaragua’s history, and started sketching ideas for my own podcast. I didn’t think much could top that sunset, but the coming hours would prove me wrong.
Part 3
Into the Dark and the Terrifying Mountain Roads
As the evening turned into night, the bus began to snake its way through the Andean mountain roads. These were not your typical winding roads. No, this was something far more intense. The bus swerved left and right, inching dangerously close to the edge. On one side, there was nothing but a sheer drop that disappeared into the abyss. On the other, towering rock faces that the bus barely missed by centimeters. I could feel my heart pounding, each hairpin turn pulling me closer to panic.
To make things worse, it was pitch dark outside, the headlights casting just enough light to show how precarious our situation was. It felt like the darkness itself was tempting the bus to tip over the edge. Every time the bus took another tight corner, my seat at the very front gave me a prime view of the cliffs we were narrowly avoiding.
Petrified doesn’t even begin to describe how I felt. I tried to convince myself that the driver had probably driven these roads a thousand times before. But as rational thoughts clashed with my rising anxiety, I couldn’t take it anymore. I bolted from my seat, heading straight for the middle of the bus, hoping that being further back would shield me from the terrifying sights.
Part 4
Holding On for Dear Life
I wasn’t alone in my terror. Other passengers sat quietly, some praying under their breath, others trying to sleep through it. The tension in the air was palpable. I remember thinking,
"If I’m going to die tonight, I’d rather be asleep and not know anything about it."
So, I curled up in my seat, did my best to block out the relentless turns, and drifted into a state of restless, broken sleep.
I woke up just before dawn. The blackness of the night had lifted, revealing a landscape both majestic and terrifying in equal measure. The mountains were still there, and the road still clung to their sides, but in the early morning light, there was a kind of beauty to the danger. The peaks around us had risen to such an altitude that some were capped with snow, their white tops gleaming in the sunlight.
I gathered my courage and returned to my seat at the front of the bus. There was something about the daylight that made it easier to face the dizzying heights and steep drops. The landscape had changed dramatically since we left Lima. The coastline was long behind us, and we were deep in the Andean highlands, where the mountains dominated every inch of the horizon.
Despite the jaw-dropping scenery, my head began to throb. Was it the altitude? Or the hours spent in a contorted sleeping position? Probably both. I’d been warned that altitude sickness could start hitting you well before you even reached Cusco, and I was definitely feeling it now. But with the scenery unfolding before me, I was determined to stick it out.
As we wound through more rural landscapes and mountain paths, the roads gradually became less intense. The sheer cliffs dropped away, and the fear that had gripped me for hours finally started to ease. It felt like we had survived the worst of it, the “terror trail” as I now called it, and all I could think was, “Thank God I’m still alive.”
With only a few hours left, I allowed myself to relax. I popped in my earbuds, switched from podcasts to an audiobook, and settled in to enjoy the view. The Andean landscape, with its rivers, valleys, and towering peaks, was a sight to behold. Even after all the fear and sleeplessness, I could appreciate how surreal it felt to be surrounded by such untouched wilderness.
Part 5
Arrival in Cusco: A New Adventure Begins
Finally, after what felt like a lifetime, the bus pulled into Cusco. The journey had been long and exhausting, but here I was, in one of the most famous cities in Peru. I grabbed a taxi and headed straight for my hostel, Pariwana Hostel Cusco, where I dropped my bags and immediately ran out to explore the city.
Spoiler alert: that was a mistake, and I learned the hard way that adjusting to Cusco’s altitude takes more than a few minutes. But that’s a story for another post
Check out my blog on “Is It Hard to Breathe in Cusco?” to learn more.
Part 6
Final Thoughts: Should You Take the Bus from Lima to Cusco?
After 23 hours on the road, what’s my advice? Well, that depends on the kind of traveler you are.
If you’re a thrill-seeker, someone who loves pushing the boundaries of comfort for the sake of stunning views and unforgettable experiences, then this bus journey will be right up your alley.
If you get motion sickness easily or aren’t a fan of narrow mountain roads with sheer drops, I’d recommend flying. Sure, it costs more (around £40 more), but it’s worth it if you want to save your nerves and its a heck of a lot quicker, less than 2 hours! Check Skyscanner below because if you grab a last minute flight, you may be able to get there for a very similar price point!
For those daring enough to brave the bus, it’s a journey that will stay with you forever. Not just because of the adrenaline rush, but because the Peruvian landscape is like nothing else in the world. The memories of that coastal sunset, the snow-capped mountains, and the rugged beauty of the Andes are images that will stay etched in my mind for years to come, although the train journey to Machu Picchu is equally as stunning and lets be honest, the reason you are in Cusco is to get to Machu Picchu right? But we will cover that wonderful journey in a separate post.
Until that though backpackers, enjoy Peru, enjoy Lima, enjoy Cusco, enjoy exploring you awesome people. Jack
Have You Made This Journey? Share Your Experience!
Have you taken the bus from Lima to Cusco? Or maybe you’ve got questions about what to expect? Drop a comment below. I’d love to hear your stories, and I’m always up for swapping tips with fellow travellers.
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