Crossing the Pasos Canoas Border: Costa Rica to Panama – A Backpacker’s Guide
- Jack Thompson
- Mar 12
- 9 min read
Updated: Apr 6
The Pasos Canoas Border, Costa Rica to Panama, need to knows for backpackers and explorers by a backpacker who got caught out!
The Pasos Canoas border crossing between Costa Rica and Panama is one of the busiest and most chaotic land borders in Central America. Unlike some of the more structured crossings, this one can be a real test of patience; long lines, confusing paperwork, and last-minute document checks are all part of the experience. If you’re traveling overland, especially as a backpacker, you’ll want to be fully prepared to avoid unnecessary stress, delays, and unexpected costs.
Here’s everything you need to know to cross smoothly, plus some personal insights from my journey traveling from San José, Costa Rica, to David, Panama.
-- The Journey: San José to David via Pasos Canoas --
The overnight bus from San José leaves at an ungodly hour and a new friend I met at the Selina (now Socialtel) in San Jose late at night, boarding a long-haul bus bound for David, Panama. These buses tend to be cheap but comfortable enough, with multiple stops for the bathroom and a breakfast stop before you get to the Panama border. By the time we reached the border in the early morning hours, I was half-asleep, unprepared, and unaware of the chaos I was about to walk into.
Stamping out of Costa Rica, as you can imagine was a breeze, super nice lady "did you enjoy your time in Costa Rica"? Absolutely I stated and thanked her for having a country that made me feel so welcome.
Jumping back on the bus we rolled forward perhaps around 400 meters to the immigration office of Panama, this is where the s**t hit the fan.
As soon as the bus stopped, the driver rushed us off, telling us we needed to sort our exit and entry procedures quickly; my (dutch) friend and I came face to face with the immigration officers (side by side) up neither of us with proof of onward travel, at which point we received a fairly stern, "no onward travel no entry to Panama". My Dutch friend was far better at Spanish than me and began to negotiate, but the border guards simply had none of it and we were left in a position of needing to do something fast.
We stepped back from the counter to let our fellow bus riders go through their document checks. remarkably my phone had signal but it was 3G and slow as slow can be. I knew I would be booking onto a crossing to Colombia via the San Blas Islands and had been eyeing up a company to do it with for a few weeks in Nicaragua. I opened up there website and booked onto a trip selecting a date for around 3 weeks time. I attempted to pay. Filling out my details one at a time seemed to take and age before finally I hit confirm and payed for a ticket. The buffer wheel slowly turned and I got a confirmation message of the booking. Naturally this would not be enough I was told I would need an email. I started to pray and passed my phone over to my dutch friend to use. Her tactic an onward flight out of Panama, the ticket would be sent to her by a friend.
To add to this the bus driver stated to my dutch friend and I that if we did not get approved quickly he would leave us being. Thanks mate! As much as this was not appreciated, I do get 2 travellers cannot hold up the entire bus.
When I look back not in retrospect the worst outcome would have been we had to stay on the border sort out our situation and then jump on a shuttle on the other side of the border. But tired and under pressure that clarity of thinking was simply not with me!
Fortunately my confirmation email came through as did my Dutch friends ticket. We were stamped into Panama and joined the rest of the bus passengers who were now going through baggage checks. The immigration officers here literally opened every bag, took things out to look through and then left the passengers to reassemble their things! Fun!
Nothing to hide this part was simple. We had made it zipping our bags back up we passed through the exit door and threw our bags back onto the bus 🎉.
Its a funny travel story now but as I say it was super stressful at the time and the worst part is, it could have been simply avoided with the proof of onward travel. If you want to see me with a bit of a cold having a moan about the whole situation then have a look at the border forum (and please add to it if you have done this crossing recently).
So here is what you need to know to get smoothly across the Pasos Canoas border.
💸 Border Fees & Costs
Costa Rica Exit Tax: You’ll need to pay $8–$10 USD to leave Costa Rica. Some bus companies include this in the ticket price, but if not, you’ll need to pay at a kiosk near the border.
Panama Entry Fee: There is no official entry fee for most nationalities, but officers may ask you to show proof of sufficient funds (at least $500 USD). Carrying a credit card or printed bank statement can help if questioned or have a preloaded card with the amount on it.
Onward Travel Requirement: This is strictly enforced; expect to show a bus ticket, flight, or proof of exit.
🚨 Common Border Scams & How to Avoid Them
The way the border was organised here there is little time to get into to much trouble from scams you hop out the bus and into a door for exit stamps, back on the bus, roll forward, back out the bus literally on the doorstep of immigration, however there are still something you should be aware of so lets go through them:
Fake Exit Fees: Some “official-looking” guys might try to charge you an extra fee to exit Costa Rica. The only legit fee is the $8–$10 exit tax.
Fake Mandatory Insurance: Some travellers have been told they need “special insurance” to enter Panama. This is not required; ignore anyone trying to sell it.
Sketchy “Helpers” Offering to Fast-Track You: Avoid paying anyone to “help” you through the border. These people typically ask for money but don’t speed up the process.
Overpriced Currency Exchange: Border exchange booths are notorious for terrible rates. If you need Panamanian Balboas or USD, exchange money in advance wait until you get to David so you can use an ATM. One useful thing across most of Central America is the USD. Its seen as a stable currency so you may be able to use it in Panama, you certainly can in Nicaragua!
🎫 Essential Documents & Requirements
Proof of onward travel: As you now know, I learned this the hard way. Panama requires proof of onward travel, meaning you need to show a bus ticket, flight, or boat trip out of the country.
Proof of Accommodation: While not always checked, Panama can ask for a hotel or hostel reservation for at least your first night. Have a screenshot or printed copy ready just in case.
Printed Copies of All Documents: Important Some officials will not accept digital versions of documents. Bring printed copies of your:
Passport
Onward travel confirmation
Accommodation booking
Bank statement or credit card (if proof of funds is requested)
-- Transportation from Pasos Canoas to David --
Once past the border, the next step is getting to David or Panama City.
🚌 David to Bocas Del Toro
Bus to David: We booked onto a Tica Bus which runs from San José to David and beyond. The ride from the border to David took about an hour. Why did I stop in David? Because I wanted to get to Bocas Del Toro (a backpackers paradise) you can read about how to do this in my blog 'Getting from David to Bocas Del Toro' its another journey that is easy enough but there are some things you need to prepare for so have a read, the reward is great!
🚎 David to Panama City
David to Panama City: From David, there are frequent buses to Panama City (6–8 hours), leaving from the main terminal, you can also opt to go all the way to Panama City from San Jose (good luck thats a long ride). If you want to know what to do when you get there though I have you covered with my Things to do Panama blog.
🔫 Talk to me about Safety Jack
Ok Ok, I have got you covered, I have put together my thoughts on how the general vibe is in both Costa Rica and Panama from a safety perspective. One word summaries for both - Costa Rica, get out of San Jose quick, and Panama, quite delightful! Both linked below.
-- Where to Stay in San Jose &/ or David --
🌆 Where to Stay in San Jose
Although San Jose is a bit of a gritty city, it actually has some super nice hostels that are clean and very comfortable! Stray cat has built a great reputation and is a fantastic option for quick overnight stays whilst Capital Hostel de Ciudad offers a very modern and comfortable stay which is ideal for those looking to spend a few days and maybe take on some tours or activities in the Capital.
💰 Budget: Stray Cat Hostel
Why Stay? One of the most affordable hostels in San José, great for short stopovers before heading to your Costa Rica Paradise
Vibe: Laid-back, social atmosphere.
Facilities: Free breakfast (yay), luggage storage, communal kitchen.
Perfect For: Backpackers catching early buses.
💎 Mid-Range: Capital Hostel de Ciudad
Why Stay? Stylish, modern, and one of the highest-rated hostels in the city.
Vibe: Quiet, comfortable, digital nomad-friendly.
Facilities: Private rooms, coworking space, strong WiFi.
Perfect For: Remote workers & travelers who prefer a peaceful and more conferable stay.
🏢 Where to Stay in David
David is the urban industrial hub of Panama, it feeds the massive beast that is Panama City and because of that there is not a huge amount to do here. the best option is to have a layover and move on the next day. If you are used to nice hostels, drop your standards a bit here and if you are not prepared to do that then you are going to need a hotel. I stayed in Bambu, my recommendation would be Hostal Familiar Argenal (below). I arrived into David just after midday and was on the road again by around 1am the next morning. I withdrew some money, had a glass on wine with mu dutch friend in the pool, and then jumped into bed. The owner had booked a taxi for me to get me to a shuttle that would eventually get me to Bocas Del Toro, the backpackers paradise!
💰 Budget: Hostal Familiar Argeñal
Why Stay? Affordable hostels in David, great for short stopovers before heading to Boquete, Bocas Del Toro or Panama City.
Vibe: Little rough around the edges but ok for a layover.
Facilities: Free breakfast (yay), luggage storage, communal kitchen.
Perfect For: Backpackers catching early buses.
💎 More Comfort: Hotel Puerta del Sol
Why Stay? More comfortable than the hostels in David. Guaranteed a good night sleep after a long bus journey.
Vibe: Clean, tidy and convenient hotel.
Facilities: Free breakfast at an early time
Perfect For: Backpackers catching buses or heading to the border who want a bit more comfort that the local hostels.
-- Final Thoughts on this Crossing from Costa Rica to Panama --
This was not the smoothest journey, and it could have been avoided if I had prepared better. The biggest takeaway? Have all your documents printed and ready, and don’t rely on border WiFi!
📚 Further Reading on Panama and Costa Rica
If you’ve crossed this border recently, share your experience on the Backpackers Blueprint Border Forum! Every bit of up-to-date information helps fellow travellers navigate these tricky crossings safely. 💪
🚀 Safe travels, and may your border crossings be smooth!
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