So, you’ve made it to Cusco, the stunning, ancient Cusco. The cobblestone streets and vibrant energy of this high-altitude city have already won your heart. But let’s be honest, you’re here for one thing: Machu Picchu. The mystical Lost City of the Incas calls to every traveler who sets foot in this region. And one of the most magical parts of this journey is the train ride from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, the gateway to Machu Picchu.
Buckle up, or should I say, get comfortable, because Cusco to Machu Picchu by train is a sensory feast. We’ll talk train options, what to pack, and most importantly, what to expect as you wind through some of the most breathtaking landscapes in the world.
Leaving Cusco
Our journey begins where many of Cusco’s backpackers find themselves at the start: Parawana Hostel. After chatting with the helpful staff, I stashed my large bag in storage and packed a small day sack. If you’re wondering why this is important its because of two reasons:
No.1 You can't take a large bag on the train.
No.2 Traveling light is the way to go, especially after months of lugging around all your worldly possessions.
Just imagine the relief of carrying a daypack, feeling unburdened, its like shedding a second skin. It’s a simple act of practicality that transforms into a little moment of freedom. I was floating, already feeling lighter before even stepping foot on the train. So what train was that?
Choosing Your Train: Budget or Luxury?
Once you’ve packed light and nimble, it’s time to think about your train options. For this journey, you’ll be heading to Aguas Calientes, the town at the foot of Machu Picchu. Tickets can range from budget-friendly to high-end luxury, so there’s something for everyone.
I travelled with Peru rail and the way they do this is to simply to choose the option that suits your budget.
Prices for 2024 these are for one way (discount applied to return tickets):
Big budget - Vistadome Observatory - Circa $120USD
Think panoramic windows that make you feel like you’re gliding through the Andes. On these trains, there’s entertainment and even a dining car offering full meals. It's luxury on rails, and with the views, it's worth every penny if you can splurge.
Medium Budget - Vistadome - $70 to 90 - USD
Much the same as above but without a private balcony! More glass great service
Lower Budget - Expedition - $50 - 70USD
If you’re like me and traveling on a shoestring, don’t worry. I opted for the more affordable route, and it was still fantastic. You’re here for the landscapes, after all, and even the “cheaper” trains offer views that are hard to beat the train also still has windows in to ceiling for you to take in the mountain tops.
I booked my ticket in advance online, so I had my seat all sorted. It’s important to remember that you need to stick to your assigned seat, as there are stops along the way where new travellers will board.
Cusco to Machu Picchu by Train: The Climb Out of Cusco
Heading to the station in good time you simply walk into the station flash your ticket to a supervisor and head to the glass waiting room. After standing/ sitting around for a little while I began to wonder what is going on, then simply a conductor walks in and begins to organise everyone by coach. You will be ushered coach by coach to your seats. Peru rail is a beautiful deep blue with yellow highlights. Its a romantic looking train that almost mimics the steam engines of years gone by.
Once everyone is seated the train will slowly pull away from the station. Sitting back to relax knowing I was on board and heading the right way, the train stopped. It felt like a good amount of time before we started to head backward! Are we going back to the station!? Welllllll no. It turns out the train is actually famous for its switchbacks! It literally climbs out of the city. This process takes a while but as you get higher and higher you can really get a wonderful view of Cusco below.
Finally as you summit the switchbacks (there are 5 for those who are counting) the train begins to head out of Cusco, slow and steady it winds through tight streets and gets very intimate with the facades of some buildings. All part of the experience! The urban sprawl is unique and interesting in its own right. Its far different from the perfection of Cuscos Plaza Mayor! The builds are run down and dilapidated, they look as though the train passing could shake them to the ground. The landscape becomes dusty, the environment is unregulated, spontaneous and the home to the blue collar workers. We slowly slalomed through before finally the dusty landscape and urban sprawl began to give way to the stunning Peruvian landscape.
Into the Sacred Valley: A Symphony of Landscapes
As the train picks up speed, the landscapes outside the window becomes art. The train is smoothly gliding through the Sacred Valley, a place steeped in history and natural beauty. The train then crosses over the river Urubamba, wide and flowing quickly the train rides along next to the river so close you feel as though you could reach out and touch the water. Following this river for a short while you will begin to slow to allow people at Ollantaytambo to board. This takes a little while, you have nothing to do but enjoy having nothing to do, and that, is very easy to do in this landscape.
The mountains here are massive, imposing, and ancient. It feels like they’ve been watching over this valley for millennia. In some places, the cliffs rise so steeply that you can barely see the peaks from your window, as if the train is slicing through the very heart of the earth.
There’s an occasional commentary from a tannoy on the train, filling you in on the historical and cultural significance of the land you’re passing through. Its a very welcome and good addition.
When the commentary stops, there’s only the sound of the train, the river, and your thoughts.
Fortunately for me, I had a fellow solo adventure from Chile seated next to me. We quickly bonded over stories of past adventures and shared our excitement for the days ahead. There’s something about travel that dissolves the usual boundaries between strangers. Her english was far better than my Spanish but we managed to communicate well, by the time the train was halfway to Aguas Calientes, we were friends.
The Mesmerising River and Mountain Passes
The further you travel, the more wild and untamed the landscape becomes. The train hugs the river. At one point, we passed through a gorge so narrow, the mountains seemed to close in, as if protecting this sacred passage.
This part of the journey, for me, was the most profound. There’s something about watching the river twist and turn, surrounded by towering mountains, that makes you feel small in the best possible way. It’s humbling. Being so far from home, you begin to realise how small you are in the context of planet earth, our beautiful blue marble. Then just as you feel grateful to be alive Volcano Nevado Veronicas snowy peaks seals your appreciation to be here on earth. You have the river flowing below you a blue/ green/ white rush of water across river stones some as big as as car acting as sculptural elements in the water. The rivers sides are made up of the same stone but smaller turning to pebbles before lush grasses, brushed and trees take over, the steep sides of the mountains are reds and, browns and greys. The blue sky makes all the colours pop and then finally you have the Snowy peaks of Nevado Veronicas. It is easy to see why the Inca have such a deep connection to the land and the gods.
If you are religious it is easy to give thanks for this environment, if you are not, this landscape could make you reconsider.
The Final Stretch: Into Aguas Calientes
To top off the journey, the town of Aguas Calientes feels like it was plucked straight from a fairytale, hidden away in the valley like a secret treasure. But here’s the thing, there’s no grand train station awaiting you. Instead, the train pulls into what feels more like a roadside stop. You simply hop off, and boom ... you’re in Aguas Calientes.
We arrived to the sounds of a small festival. Talk about luck! The town was celebrating a festival honouring Machu Picchu and its indigenous roots. Music echoed in the valley, and colourful costumes swirled through the air. It was one of those moments where the universe hands you a little extra magic, god bless backpacking!
My new friend and I wandered the narrow streets, our eyes wide with wonder. We found our respective hostels, I stayed at Supertramp Hostel Machupicchu, a fitting homage to the book and movie 'Into the Wild' (RIP Supertramp). After settling in, we met back up for a much-needed coffee.
We chose a quaint spot called Pueblo Viejo Machu Picchu Restaurant, where the pasta was surprisingly delicious (Italian food in the Andes? Yes, please!). With our bellies full, we spent the rest of the afternoon wandering the town, meandering like the river that cuts through its centre, taking photos and soaking in the vibrant energy.
As the sun began to set, casting a warm glow over the valley, we made our way to the entrance gates of the Machu Picchu walking path. The anticipation for the next day was palpable. You could feel it in the air, the whispers of the ancient city calling to us from beyond the mountains.
Final Thoughts: The Train Journey, Simplicity, and Serendipity
The train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes isn’t just transportation; it’s part of the experience. It’s a journey through time, space, and some of the most breathtaking landscapes you’ll ever witness. Whether you choose the budget-friendly option or opt for the luxury ride with panoramic views, you won’t be disappointed.
For me, this trip was a reminder of how travel brings us together. I made a new friend, experienced a festival I didn’t even know existed, and got to see a part of the world that has been high on my bucket list for as long as I can remember.
Backpacking won the day, once again, reminding me that the best moments in travel aren’t always the ones you plan for.
So, what are you waiting for? If you’ve been dreaming of Machu Picchu, get yourself to Cusco, book that train ticket, and get ready for a journey that will stick with you long after the last view fades from the train window.
In Cusco or need to get there? Check out our detailed blog on reading the architecture of Cusco Plaza. Better still stay tuned for the walking tour blog which is being released on the 23 of October.
If your architecture taste buds are flowing find flights to Cusco from Lima below or if you are brave enough to take the bus check out my blog post on getting from Lima to Cusco by bus.
Have you taken the train from Cusco to Machu Picchu? Share your experience in the comments below! And don’t forget to subscribe for more travel tips and stories from Cusco and beyond! Stay tuned for upcoming posts on Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu itself, you won’t want to miss them!
For the curious explorer
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