Experiencing the Golden Temple: A Backpacker’s Journey into Sikhism’s Holiest Site

Visiting the golden temple Amritsar (amritsar darbar sahib)

Waking up in Madpackers Hostel, I could already feel the electric pulse of Amritsar. The city hums with life;s treet vendors setting up stalls, the scent of fresh chai filling the air, and the distant echo of temple prayers blending into the morning bustle.

Today, I was setting out to visit Sri Harmandir Sahib, more famously known as the Golden Temple; a place that had fascinated me for years, not just for its breathtaking architecture but for the spiritual essence that surrounds it.

Stepping outside, I walked with purpose down the short streets to get to the building at the heart of it all. These streets were old, broken down, busy polluted and frankly did not feel overly clean, they would be the exact opposite of what I was about to find. As the temple complex came into view, the sight of its shimmering gold façade reflecting in the water I felt like a child in a sweet shop.

Approaching the entrance, I noticed something different; no grand archways or towering gates asserting dominance. Instead, the temple is built lower than the surrounding city, an intentional design to symbolise humility. I covered my head with a scarf, removed my shoes, and stepped onto the cool marble walkway leading into the temple grounds. Instantly, the air felt different; calm, reverent, filled with the soft murmurs of prayers and the occasional clang of temple bells.

Stepping onto the Parikrama (the marble circumambulatory path), I couldn't help but marvel at the reflection of the Golden Temple in the water. There’s something mesmerising about it, as if the temple floats; suspended between the earth and the divine.

The Architecture – A Blend of Cultures

The temple itself is smaller than I expected, yet infinitely grander in presence. The gold-plated dome gleamed under the morning sun, its inverted-lotus shape symbolising detachment from materialism. Floral motifs, intricate marble inlays, and delicate jali screens covered the structure, each detail telling a silent story of artistry and devotion, a practise we seem to be sorely missing in modern architecture.

Walking along the causeway bridge, I felt as if I was physically crossing into another realm; a symbolic journey from the material world to the spiritual. The temple’s four entrances, opening in all directions, spoke volumes about Sikhism’s principle of inclusivity. Everyone is welcome here, regardless of caste, creed, or nationality.

Sitting down in a quiet corner, I let the moment sink in. The rhythmic chanting, the gentle flickering of lamps, the hushed whispers of prayer; it was one of those rare travel moments where you feel completely present, as if time itself has slowed down. I had not had a feeling like this since looking over the Tatacoa landscape in Colombia, and realising there is a lot of good in the world. Here in this moment that feeling spread back through me. People seemed peaceful, happy, grateful, what ever it was it intoxicates you.

The Langar Hall

After spending time inside the sanctum, I followed the crowds to the Langar Hall, you may have heard this before as it is an infamous symbol of generosity and equality. The temple serves over 100,000 free meals a day, yes 100,000! The largest free kitchen in the world. I was handed a metal plate and ushered into the dining hall, where travellers, locals, and devotees sat side by side, cross-legged on the floor, waiting to be served.

The simplicity of the meal; dal, chapati, and rice; was overshadowed by the profound sense of unity that filled the room. Here, there are no rich or poor, no high caste or low caste; just people, sharing a meal in complete equality. Its something that drives me as a human, that total sense of equality. Of course there will always be light and dark, but the human experience on earth for me is to never stand in judgement. We have all be shaped by our context but if we could break free from our differences humanity would realise it had more in common than it does in differences, and here in the Langar Hall that sentiment seems to be embodied. Whilst here in India and Amritsar I would be heading to the Wagan border, the yang to this ying where the differences of humans would be on full display. The irony of such a strict border so close played on my mind but that adventure would be for a different day.

I took a bite of the warm, spiced dal and felt gratitude wash over me; not just for the food, but for the experience of being a part of something so deeply human, this is why we travel.

Sunset at the Golden Temple

As the day faded into twilight, I walked the Parikrama one last time, watching the temple transition from golden brilliance to a soft, glowing beacon in the night. The reflection in the Amrit Sarovar was now even more striking, the still water mirroring the illuminated temple with perfect clarity.

Before leaving, I took a final moment to stand at the edge of the Sarovar, letting the last echoes of the kirtan settle in my mind. This wasn’t just a monument; it was an experience, a lesson in humility, service, and spiritual connection.

I walked back toward the bustling streets of Amritsar, my heart a little fuller, my mind a little quieter, and my journey through India just beginning but what a starting point.

Heading back to the hostel I sat with some fellow explorers trading tips and stories on all things Amritsar, India, and of course the golden temple.

Backpacker Tips for Visiting the Golden Temple

🎒 Where to Stay for Backpackers

Madpackers Hostel

This place is the best choice for those looking for a exellent price, social vibe and lovely environemnt. For backpackers, do not think twice about booking in here, if you want to avoid a dorm the private rooms are also an exellent price point.

🛁 Where to Stay for Comfort

Ranjit’s Svaasa

Housed in one of Amritsar's oldest mansions, Ranjit's Svaasa, a 200 year old Heritage Boutique Haveli is a luxurious spa retreat located just off Mall Road. Dating back to over 200 years ago, it provides yoga and meditation sessions, a fitness room and other wellness therapies

🧦 Dress code

Both men and women must cover their heads before entering the temple complex. Headscarves are provided at the entrance and you must dress modestly.

🌅 More than one stop

Sunrise and sunset offer dramatically different but equally stunning experiences.

🍛 Eat at Langar Hall

The community meal is not just about food; it’s about participating in the Sikh principle of equality.

🤫 Respect the Silence

Photography is allowed in the temple complex, but avoid filming inside the sanctum.

The Golden Temple of Amritsar

To discover more about of India, Make sure to check out my videos on Youtube @backpackersblueprint and follow me there as I travel through India discovering its architecture and its people along the way.

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